Golden Dragon Sichuan Restaurant

Once a neighbourhood tea cafe, now given over to Sichuan and Hunan cooking, with a bright, roomy dining room that fills quickly enough to leave a short wait at peak hours. The signature is pickled cabbage fish, a generous sour-spicy broth holding tender fillets, wide sweet potato noodles and bean sprouts; a lunchtime version comes cheap with a drink. Beyond it sit a dry spice pot heaped with prawns, pork and cauliflower, Chongqing chilli chicken, spicy pork intestine, typhoon-shelter squid tentacles and dry-fried green beans. Heat can be dialled down on request, and portions run large for the price.