Sun Kwong Chiu Chow Restaurant

A Chiu Chow dining room of more than thirty years standing near the Causeway Bay flyover, its walls papered with signed photographs and a marinated meat counter set behind glass at the entrance. Kung fu tea arrives as you sit. The cold marinated platter anchors the menu, goose slices, goose intestine, cuttlefish, pork and bean curd all steeped through, with chilled mullet, oyster congee, pan-fried oyster cake, peppery pig's stomach soup and salt-and-pepper squid close behind. Sugar-coated taro makes a traditional finish. It stays open late and fills up, so a reservation helps; seafood priced by weight pushes the bill up quickly.