Nang Kee Chinese Restaurant

A Sham Tseng institution trading since 1962 and still roasting over charcoal rather than switching to electric ovens. Roast goose is the reason to come: lacquered skin that crackles, meat that stays juicy, and a smokiness only live coals give, served with house sour plum sauce and a bowl of lai fun noodles. Charcoal char siu runs a close second, its edges caramelised and the centre threaded with honey. Around them sit oysters baked with port and garlic, steamed squid over vermicelli, soy-king prawns on a crisp fried noodle cake and salt-and-pepper aubergine. The room is plain, well kept and built for family tables.